On the way the number of seals which we saw was quite astonishing: every bit of flat rock and parts of the beach were covered with them.

They appeared to be of a loving disposition, and lay huddled together, fast asleep, like so many pigs; but even pigs would have been ashamed of their dirt, and of the foul smell which came from them.

Each herd was watched by the patient but inauspicious eyes of the turkey-buzzard.

This disgusting bird, with its bald scarlet head, formed to wallow in putridity, is very common on the west coast, and their attendance on the seals shows on what they rely for their food.

We found the water (probably only that of the surface) nearly fresh: this was caused by the number of torrents which, in the form of cascades, came tumbling over the bold granite mountains into the sea.