The old governor had died since our last visit, and a Chileno was acting in his place.

We had a letter of introduction to Don Pedro, whom we found exceedingly hospitable and kind, and more disinterested than is usual on this side of the continent.

The next day Don Pedro procured us fresh horses, and offered to accompany us himself.

We proceeded to the south--generally following the coast, and passing through several hamlets, each with its large barn-like chapel built of wood.

At Vilipilli, Don Pedro asked the commandant to give us a guide to Cucao.