At length he named an American artist, with whose works I was very familiar, and after having declared him equal to Lawrence (judging by his portrait of West, now at New York), he added, "and what is more, madam, he is perfectly _self-taught_." I prudently took a few moments before I answered; for the equalling our immortal Lawrence to a most vile dauber stuck in my throat; I could not say Amen; so for some time I said nothing; but, at last, I remarked on the frequency with which I had heard this phrase of _self-taught_ used, not as an apology, but as positive praise.
"Well, madam, can there be a higher praise ?" "Certainly not, if spoken of the individual merits of a person, without the means of instruction, but I do not understand it when applied as praise to his works." "Not understand it, madam?
Is it not attributing genius to the author, and what is teaching compared to that ?" 296 I do not wish to repeat all my own _bons mots_ in praise of study, and on the disadvantages of profound ignorance, but I would, willingly, if I could, give an idea of the mixed indignation and contempt expressed by our companion at the idea that study was necessary to the formation of taste, and to the development of genius.

At last, however, he closed the discussion thus,--"There is no use in disputing a point that is already settled, madam; the best judges declare that Mr.H--g's portraits are equal to that of Lawrence." "Who is it who has passed this judgement, sir ?" "The men of taste of America, madam." I then asked him, if he thought it was going to rain?
The stages do not appear to have any regular stations at which to stop for breakfast, dinner, and supper.

These necessary interludes, therefore, being generally _impromptu_, were abominably bad.

We were amused by the patient manner in which our American fellow-travellers ate whatever was set before them, without uttering a word of complaint, or making any effort to improve it, but no sooner reseated in the stage, than they began their complaints--"twas a shame"-- "twas a robbery"-- "twas poisoning folks"-- and the like.

I, at last, asked the reason of this, and why they did not remonstrate?
"Because, madam, no American gentleman or lady that keeps an inn won't bear to be found fault with." We reached Utica very late and very weary; but the delights of a good hotel and perfect civility sent us in good humour to bed, and we arose sufficiently refreshed to enjoy a day's journey through some of the loveliest scenery in the world.
Who is it that says America is not picturesque?
I forget; but surely he never travelled from Utica to Albany.