[A Wanderer in Florence by E. V. Lucas]@TWC D-Link book
A Wanderer in Florence

CHAPTER XIII
17/20

Donatello designed the coat of arms here.

The palace at No.

18 belonged to the Altoviti.No.12 is the Palazzo Albizzi, the residence of one of the most powerful of the Florentine families, whose allies were all about them in this quarter, as it was wise to be.
As a change from picture galleries, I can think of nothing more delightful than to wander about these ancient streets, and, wherever a courtyard or garden shines, penetrate to it; stopping now and again to enjoy the vista, the red Duomo, or Giotto's tower, so often mounting into the sky at one end, or an indigo Apennine at the other.

Standing in the middle of the Via Ricasoli, for example, one has sight of both.
At the Piazza S.Pietro we see one of the old towers of Florence, of which there were once so many, into which the women and children might retreat in times of great danger, and here too is a series of arches which fruit and vegetable shops make gay.
The next Piazza is that of S.Ambrogio.This church is interesting not only for doing its work in a poor quarter--one has the feeling at once that it is a right church in the right place--but as containing, as I have said, the grave of Mino da Fiesole: Mino de' Poppi detto da Fiesole, as the floor tablet has it.

Over the altar of Mino's little chapel is a large tabernacle from his hand, in which the gayest little Boy gives the benediction, own brother to that one by Desiderio at S.Lorenzo.The tabernacle must be one of the master's finest works, and beneath it is a relief in which a priest pours something--perhaps the very blood of Christ which is kept here--from one chalice to another held by a kneeling woman, surrounded by other kneeling women, which is a marvel of flowing beauty and life.


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