Of all the hills which I saw in Wales none made a greater impression upon me.
Towards evening I arrived at a very small and pretty village in the middle of which was a tollgate.

Seeing an old woman seated at the door of the gate-house I asked her the name of the village.

"I have no Saesneg!" she screamed out.
"I have plenty of Cumraeg," said I, and repeated my question.

Whereupon she told me that it was called Tref y Talcot--the village of the tollgate.

That it was a very nice village, and that she was born there.
She then pointed to two young women who were walking towards the gate at a very slow pace and told me they were English.