The Enzelli lighthouse was no longer visible.

The latter is under the care of Persians, who light it, or not, as the humour takes them.

This is, on dark nights, a source of considerable danger to shipping; but, though frequently remonstrated with by the Russian Government, the Shah does not trouble his head about the matter.
Three routes to Teheran were now open to us: back to Baku, thence to Tiflis, and over the mountains to Talriz,--very dubious on account of the snow; the second, from Baku to Astrabad, and thence _via_ Mount Demavend,--still more dubious on account of bad landing as well as blocked passes; there remained to us Astara, and along the sea-beach (no road) to Enzelli, with swollen rivers and no post-horses.

All things considered, we resolved to land at Astara, even at the risk of a ducking.

Daylight found us there, anchored a mile from the shore, and a heavy swell running.