The Shagird informed us that it was considered a very good one, and was much frequented by Europeans in summer-time--presumably, judging from the holes in the roof, for the sake of coolness.

Let me here give the reader a brief description of the accommodation provided for travellers by his Imperial Majesty the Shah.

The Koudoum Chapar khaneh is a very fair example of the average Persian post-house.
Imagine a small one-storied building, whitewashed, save where wind and rain have disclosed the brown mud beneath.

A wooden ladder (with half the rungs missing) leads to the guest-chamber, a large bare room, devoid of furniture of any kind, with smoke-blackened walls and rotten, insecure flooring.

A number of rats scamper away at our approach.