Clear of the city walls, one sees nothing on every side but huge storks.

They are held sacred by the natives, being supposed to migrate to Mecca every year.

I heard at Ispahan that, notwithstanding the outward austerity and piety of the people of Koom, there is no town in Persia where so much secret depravity and licentiousness are carried on as in the "Holy City." The stage from Koom to Pasingan was accomplished in an incredibly short time; and I may here mention that this was the only occasion upon which, in Persia, I was ever given a fairly good horse.

The word _chapar_ signifies in Persian to "gallop," but it is extremely rare to find "chapar post" pony which has any notion of going out of his own pace--something between a walk and a canter, like the old grey horse that carries round the lady in pink and spangles in a travelling circus.

But to-day I got hold of a wiry, game little chestnut, who was evidently new to the job, and reached and tore away at his bridle as if he enjoyed the fun.