But a pigstye would have been welcome after such a ride, and the vermin which a flickering oil-lamp revealed in hundreds, on walls and flooring, did not prevent our sleeping soundly till morning.

My thermometer marked only one degree above zero when we retired to rest, and the wood was too damp to light a fire.
But we are in Persia! It is only fair, however, to say that the road we were now travelling is not the regular post-road, which lies some distance to the eastward of Rabat Kerim, but was now impassable on account of the snow.
The smaller track joins the main road at Koom.

By taking the less frequented track, we were unable to go through the "Malak al Niote," or "Valley of the Angel of Death," which lies about half-way between the capital and Koom.

The valley is so called from its desolate and sterile appearance, though, if this be so, the greater part of Persia might with reason bear the same name.

Be this as it may, the Shagirds and natives have the greatest objection to passing through it after dark.