Like most Eastern cities, Beila does not improve on closer acquaintance.

The people are dirty and indolent.

There is little or no trade, and the dark, narrow streets, ankle-deep in mud and filth, are crowded with beggars and pariah dogs, while the dull drab colour of the mud houses is depressing in the extreme.

The fort and palace alone are built of brick, and, being whitewashed, relieve to a certain extent the melancholy aspect of the place.

I was escorted to the latter the afternoon of my arrival by a guard of honour, preceded by the Djam's band--half a dozen cracked English cavalry trumpets! Djam Ali Khan, the present ruler of the state of Las Beila, is about fifty years of age, and is a firm ally of England.