[Lands of the Slave and the Free by Henry A. Murray]@TWC D-Link book
Lands of the Slave and the Free

CHAPTER II
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The forest of masts, and bustle on the quays, reminded me of the great sea-port of Liverpool: but scarce had I left the quays, when the placards of business on the different stories reminded me of Edinburgh.

A few minutes more, and I passed one of their large streets, justly called "Avenues," the rows of trees on each side reminding me of the _Alamedas_ in the Spanish towns; but the confusion of my ideas was completed when the hackney coach was brought to a standstill, to allow a huge railway carriage to cross our bows, the said carriage being drawn by four horses, and capable of containing fifty people.
At last, with my brain in a whirl, I alighted at Putnam's hotel, where my kind friend, Mr.W.Duncan, had prepared rooms for our party; nor did his zeal in our behalf stop here, for he claimed the privilege of being the first to offer hospitality, and had already prepared a most excellent spread for us at the far-famed _Cafe Delmonico_, where we found everything of the best: oysters, varying from the "native" size up to the large American oyster, the size of a small leg of Welsh mutton--mind, I say a small leg--the latter wonderful to look at, and pleasant to the taste, though far inferior to the sweet little "native." Here I saw for the first time a fish called "the sheep's head," which is unknown, I believe, on our side of the Atlantic.

It derives its name from having teeth exactly like those of a sheep, and is a most excellent fish wherewith to console themselves for the want of the turbot, which is never seen in the American waters.

Reader, I am not going to inflict upon you a bill of fare; I merely mention the giant oyster and the sheep's head, because they are peculiar to the country; and if nearly my first observations on America are gastronomic, it is not because I idolize my little interior, though I confess to having a strong predilection in favour of its being well supplied; but it is because during the whole time I was in the United States,--from my friend D., who thus welcomed me on my arrival, to Mr.R.Phelps, in whose house I lived like a tame cat previous to re-embarking for old England,--wherever I went I found hospitality a prominent feature in the American character.
Having enjoyed a very pleasant evening, and employed the night in sleeping off the fumes of sociability, I awoke, for the first time, in one of the splendid American hotels; and here, perhaps, it may be as well to say a few words about them, as their enormous size makes them almost a national peculiarity.
The largest hotel in New York, when I arrived, was the Metropolitan, in the centre of which is a theatre; since then, the St.Nicholas has been built, which is about a hundred yards square, five stories high, and will accommodate, when completed, about a thousand people.

Generally speaking, a large hotel has a ladies' entrance on one side, which is quite indispensable, as the hall entrance is invariably filled with smokers; all the ground floor front, except this hall and a reading-room, is let out as shops: there are two dining-saloons, one of which is set apart for ladies and their friends, and to this the vagrant bachelor is not admitted, except he be acquainted with some of the ladies, or receive permission from the master of the house.


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