The best and safest course is to send for some Arab or Bedouin chiefs, either at Jerusalem or Bethlehem, and to make a contract with them for protection.

In consideration of a certain tribute, these chiefs accompany you in person, with some of their tribe, to your place of destination and back again.
The Counts paid the two chiefs three hundred piastres, with the travelling expenses for themselves and their twelve men.
At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 7th of June our cavalcade started.

The caravan consisted of the four counts, Mr.Bartlett, a certain Baron Wrede, two doctors, and myself, besides five or six servants, and the two chiefs with the body-guard of twelve Arabs.
All were strongly armed with guns, pistols, swords, and lances, and we really looked as though we sallied forth with the intention of having a sharp skirmish.
Our way lay through the Via Dolorosa, and through St.Stephen's Gate, past the Mount of Olives, over hill and dale.

Every where the scene was alike barren.

At first we still saw many fruit-trees and olive-trees in bloom, and even vines, but of flowers or grass there was not a trace; the trees, however, stood green and fresh, in spite of the heat of the atmosphere and the total lack of rain.