CHAPTER XI.
River Mishmir--Saida--Arnauts--Desert-path--Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope--Beyrout--The consul's--Uncomfortable quarters--Sickness-- The Bazaar--Vexatious delays--Departure from Beyrout--Beautiful views--Syrian costumes--Damascus--Aspect of the city--House of the consul.
June 20th.
Shortly after five this morning we were in our saddles, and a few hours afterwards arrived at the beautiful river Mishmir, which is as broad as the Jordan, though it does not contain nearly so much water.

Next to the Jordan, however, this river is the largest we find on our journey, besides being a most agreeable object in a region so destitute of streams.

Its water is pure as crystal.
In ten hours we reached the town, and at once repaired to the convent, as not one of these cities contains an inn.

The little convent, with its tiny church, is situate at the end of a large courtyard, which is so thronged with horses and men, particularly with soldiers, that we had great difficulty in forcing our way through.

When we had at length cleared a passage for ourselves to the entrance, we were received with the agreeable intelligence that there was no room for us.