CHAPTER I.
Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--Hainburg-- Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"-- Pesth--Ofen--The steamer Galata-- Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--Austrian soldiers-- The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of the Danube--Alt-Orsova--The "Iron Gate"-- Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay.
I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the Holy Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the idea of so hazardous an enterprise.

When, therefore, my domestic arrangements at length admitted of my absence for at least a year, my chief employment was to prepare myself for this journey.

I read many works bearing on the subject, and was moreover fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of a gentleman who had travelled in the Holy Land some years before.

I was thus enabled to gain much oral information and advice respecting the means of prosecuting my dangerous pilgrimage.
My friends and relations attempted in vain to turn me from my purpose by painting, in the most glowing colours, all the dangers and difficulties which await the traveller in those regions.

"Men," they said, "were obliged gravely to consider if they had physical strength to endure the fatigues of such a journey, and strength of mind bravely to face the dangers of the plague, the climate, the attacks of insects, bad diet, etc.