But not only was the flavour of the _entrees_ quite as good as if they were composed of meat or poultry, but the appearance offered the same variety, and the _cotelettes de poisson_ and _fricandeau d'esturgeon_ might have deceived all but the profoundly learned in gastronomy,--they looked so exactly like lamb and veal. The second course offered equally delicate substitutes for the usual dainties, and the most fastidious epicure might have been more than satisfied with the _entremets_. The bishops in France are said to have had the most luxurious dinners imaginable on what were erroneously styled fast-days; and their cooks had such a reputation for their skill, that the having served _a Monseigneur d'Eglise_ was a passport to the kitchens of all lovers of good eating.
There are people so profane as to insinuate that the excellence at which the cooks arrived in dressing _les diners maigres_ is one of the causes why Catholicism has continued to flourish; but this, of course, must be looked on as a malicious hint of the enemies to that faith which thus proves itself less addicted to indulgence in the flesh than are its decryers..