[The Idler in France by Marguerite Gardiner]@TWC D-Link book
The Idler in France

CHAPTER XVI
3/11

Our new cook achieved this triumph yesterday, for he is so inimitable an artist, that the flavour of his _plats_ made even me, albeit unused to the sensation of hunger, feel disposed to render justice to them.

Monsieur Louis--for so he is named--has a great reputation in his art; and it is evident, even from the proof furnished of his _savoir-faire_ yesterday, that he merits it.
It is those only who have delicate appetites that can truly appreciate the talent of a cook; for they who devour soon lose the power of tasting.

No symptom of that terrible malady, well named by the ingenious Grimod de la Reyniere _remords d'estomac_, but vulgarly called indigestion, follows my unusual indulgence in _entrees_ and _entremets_, another delightful proof of the admirable skill of Monsieur Louis.
The English are apt to spoil French cooks by neglecting the _entrees_ for the _piece de resistance_, and, when the cook discovers this, which he is soon enabled to do by the slight breaches made in the first, and the large one in the second, his _amour-propre_ becomes wounded, and he begins to neglect his _entrees_.

Be warned, then, by me, all ye who wish your cooks to retain their skill, and however your native tastes for that English favourite dish denominated "a plain joint" may prevail, never fail to taste the _entree_.
_A propos_ of cooks, an amusing instance of the _amour-propre_ of a Parisian cook was related to me by the gourmand Lord -- --, the last time we dined at his house.

Wishing to have a particular sauce made which he had tasted in London, and for which he got the receipt, he explained to his cook, an artist of great celebrity, how the component parts were to be amalgamated.
"How, mylord!" exclaimed _Monsieur le cuisinier_; "an English sauce! Is it possible your lordsip can taste any thing so barbarous?
Why, years ago, my lord, a profound French philosopher described the English as a people who had a hundred religions, but only one sauce." More anxious to get the desired sauce than to defend the taste of his country, or correct the impertinence of his cook, Lord -- -- immediately said, "On recollection, I find I made a mistake; the sauce I mean is _a la Hollandaise_, and not _a l'Anglaise_." _A la bonne heure_, my lord, _c'est autre chose_; and the sauce was forthwith made, and was served at table the day we dined with Lord -- --.
An anecdote is told of this same cook, which Lord -- -- relates with great good humour.


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