I had a difficult time, in those days, reconciling what I saw with what I had been taught was right, and I had to sort over my ideas and deep-rooted prejudices a good many times.
The two pretty squaws prepared a nice breakfast for us, and we set out, quite refreshed, to travel over the malapais (as the great lava-beds in that part of the country are called).

There was no trace of a road.

A few hours of this grinding and crunching over crushed lava wearied us all, and the animals found it hard pulling, although the country was level.
We crossed Silver Creek without difficulty, and arrived at Stinson's ranch, after traveling twenty-five miles, mostly malapais.

Do not for a moment think of these ranches as farms.

Some of them were deserted sheep ranches, and had only adobe walls standing in ruins.