[Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands by Charles Nordhoff]@TWC D-Link bookNorthern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands CHAPTER II 21/24
I am told that this jet has at times reached nearly to the summit level of the crater; and it must then have been a glorious spectacle. [Illustration: SURF BATHING.] Near Hilo are some pretty water-falls and several sugar plantations, to which you can profitably give a couple of days, and on another you should visit Cocoa-nut Island, and--as interesting a spot as almost any on the Islands--a little lagoon on the main-land near by, in which you may see the coral growing, and pick it up in lovely specimens with the stones upon which it has built in these shallow and protected waters.
Moreover, the surf-beaten rocks near by yield cowries and other shells in some abundance; and I do not know anywhere of a pleasanter picnic day than that you can spend there. Finally, Hilo is one of the very few places on these islands where you can see a truly royal sport--the surf-board.
It requires a rough day and a heavy surf, but with a good day it is one of the finest sights in the world. The surf-board is a tough plank about two feet wide and from six to twenty feet long, usually made of the bread-fruit-tree.
Armed with these, a party of tall, muscular natives swim out to the first line of breakers, and, watching their chance to duck under this, make their way finally, by the help of the under-tow, into the smooth water far off: beyond all the surf. Here they bob up and down on the swell like so many ducks, watching their opportunity.
What they seek is a very high swell, before which they place themselves, lying or kneeling on the surf-board.
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