[Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands by Charles Nordhoff]@TWC D-Link bookNorthern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands CHAPTER II 23/24
Occasionally a man would stand erect upon his surf-board, balancing himself in the boiling surf without apparent difficulty. The surf-board play is one of the ancient sports of Hawaii.
I am told that few of the younger generation are capable of it, and that it is thought to require great nerve and coolness even among these admirable swimmers, and to be not without danger. In your journeys to the different islands you need to take with you, as part of your baggage, saddle and bridle, and all the furniture of a horse. You can hire or buy a horse anywhere very cheaply; but saddles are often unattainable, and always difficult to either borrow or hire.
"You might as well travel here without your boots as without your saddle," said a friend to me; and I found it literally true, not only for strangers, but for residents as well.
Thus you may notice that the little steamer's hold, as she leaves Honolulu, contains but few trunks; but is crowded with a considerable collection of saddles and saddle-bags, the latter the most convenient receptacles for your change of clothing. Riding on Hawaii is often tiresome, even to one accustomed to the saddle, by reason of the slow pace at which you are compelled to move.
Wherever you stop, for lunch or for the night, if there are native people near, you will be greatly refreshed by the application of what they call "lomi-lomi." Almost everywhere you will find some one skillful in this peculiar and, to tired muscles, delightful and refreshing treatment. To be lomi-lomied, you lie down upon a mat, loosening your clothing, or undressing for the night if you prefer.
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