The mountain on which Simla is situated has a double summit, like a Swiss peak, the one higher than the other.

On the lower height and the neck between the two is built the town, and the bungalows used as offices and residences for the Government officials cover a very considerable, area.

"Jako," the higher eminence, is thickly covered with a forest of primeval rhododendrons and pines, and though there are outlying bungalows and villas scattered about among the trees near the town, they are so far back from the main road, reserved as I have said for the use of the Viceroy, as far as driving is concerned, that they are not seen in riding along the shady way; and on the opposite side, where the trees are thin, the magnificent view looks far out over the spurs of the mountains, the only human habitation visible being a Catholic convent, which rears its little Italian _campanile_ against the blue sky, and rather adds to the beauty of the scene than otherwise.

As we rode along we continued our talk about the new Afghan war, though neither of us was very much in the humour for animated conversation.

The sweet scent of the pines, the matchless motion of the Arab, and the joyous feeling that the worst part of the tropical year was passed, were enough for me, and I drank in the high, rarefied air, with the intense delight of a man who has been smothered with dust and heat, and then steamed to a jelly by a spring and summer in the plains of Hindustan.
The road abounds in sharp turns, and I, as the heavier mount, rode on the inside as we went round the mountain.