The combs of fowls should be bright colored, and the legs smooth.
_Geese_, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have white soft fat, and yellow feet.
_Ducks_ are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are firm and thick on the breast.
_Pigeons_ should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet elastic.

Only experience can make one familiar with other signs; and a good butcher can usually be trusted to tide one over the season of inexperience, though the sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned.
BOILED MEATS AND STEWS.
All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at table must be put into _boiling water_, thus following an entirely opposite rule from those intended for soups.

In the latter, the object being to extract all the juice, cold water must always be used first, and then heated with the meat in.

In the former, all the juice is to be kept in; and, by putting into boiling water, the albumen of the meat hardens on the surface and makes a case or coating for the meat, which accomplishes this end.

Where something between a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as in _beef bouilli_, the meat is put on in cold water, which is brought to a boil _very quickly_, thus securing good gravy, yet not robbing the meat of all its juices.
With corned or salted meats, tongue, &c., cold water must be used, and half an hour to the pound allowed.