Altogether this part of the town is unquestionably commonplace.

The learned archaeologist may detect in it some traces of the distant past, but the ordinary traveller will find little to arrest his attention.
If now we cross over to the other side of the river, we are at once confronted by something which very few Russian towns possess--a kremlin, or citadel.

This is a large and slightly-elevated enclosure, surrounded by high brick walls, and in part by the remains of a moat.

Before the days of heavy artillery these walls must have presented a formidable barrier to any besieging force, but they have long ceased to have any military significance, and are now nothing more than an historical monument.

Passing through the gateway which faces the bridge, we find ourselves in a large open space.