2/12 Another little modest place between narrow calli, and the plain eighteenth-century Grassi confronts us. The Campo of S.Samuele, with its traghetto, church, and charming campanile, now opens out. The church has had an ugly brown house built against it. Then the Malipiero, with its tropical garden, pretty marble rail and brown posts, and then two more antiquity stores with hideous facades, the unfinished stonework on the side of the second of which, with the steps and sottoportico, was to have been a palace for the Duke of Milan, but was discontinued. Mr.Howells lived there in the early eighteen-sixties, when a member of the American Consulate in Venice. |