[A Wanderer in Venice by E.V. Lucas]@TWC D-Link bookA Wanderer in Venice CHAPTER XIX 15/20
The old woman who sat in the door did not thread the beads as the girl does in one of Whistler's Venetian etchings, but stabbed a basketful with a wire, each time gathering a few more. The great outstanding buildings of the Giudecca are Palladio's massive Redentore and S.Eufemia, and at the west end the modern Gothic polenta mill of Signor or Herr Stucky, beyond which is the lagoon once more.
In Turner's picture in the National Gallery entitled "San Benedetto, looking towards Fusina" there is a ruined tower where Stucky's mill now stands. The steps of the Redentore are noble, but within it is vast and cold and inhuman, and the statues in its niches are painted on the flat. Tintoretto's "Descent from the Cross" in the church proper is very vivid.
In the sacristy, however, the chilled visitor will be restored to life by a truly delightful Madonna and Child, with two little celestial musicians playing a lullaby, said to be by Bellini, but more probably by Alvise Vivarini, and two companion pictures of much charm.
Like the Salute, the Redentore was a votive offering to heaven for stopping a plague.
Every year, on the third Sunday in July, a bridge of boats crosses the Grand Canal at the Campo S.Zobenigo, and then from the Zattere it crosses the Giudecca canal to this church.
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